Tea Journal · Black tea

Assam tea: what second flush and CTC actually mean

Assam is the tea most of Britain has been drinking all along without knowing the name. It is the big, malty black tea from the north east of India that gives breakfast blends their strength, and it is the base of my Scottish Breakfast. The label on ours says Assam 2nd Flush CTC, which is three bits of information. Here is what each one means.

Assam, the place

Assam is a state in north east India, in the valley of the Brahmaputra river. It is low, hot and wet, and the tea plant there is a different variety from the one grown in China, with bigger leaves and a bolder taste. It is the largest tea growing region in the world by volume, and the malty, deep flavour is unmistakable once you know it.

Second flush, the picking

A flush is a growth of new leaves. The first flush is picked in spring and is lighter and greener. The second flush comes in early summer, from about May to June, and this is the one Assam is famous for. The leaf is fuller, the brew is darker, and the malt is at its strongest. Second flush Assam is what you want in a breakfast tea.

CTC, the rolling

CTC stands for crush, tear, curl. After the leaf is withered, it goes through rollers that break it into small, even pellets rather than leaving it whole. Small pellets brew fast and strong, which is exactly what you want from a morning cup with milk. Whole leaf Assam is lovely too but takes longer and is more delicate. CTC is the honest choice for a strong, quick, reliable brew, and it is what nearly all British tea bags contain. The difference is ours is in a pouch and you can see it.

What it tastes like

Malty, rich, a bit like the smell of a bakery first thing. Brewed strong it has real weight on the tongue. It takes milk and sugar without disappearing, and it is the tea to reach for if you have ever found a cup weak. On its own it is bold. Blended with Kenyan and Ceylon, as in Scottish Breakfast, it gets a bit more brightness around the malt.

How to brew it

One heaped teaspoon per 200ml mug, freshly boiled water, three to five minutes. Three is a strong normal cup. Five is builder's strength. Because CTC leaf is fine, use an infuser with a fine mesh or a fill your own bag, otherwise bits end up in the cup. One steep per spoon of leaf. A 100g pouch makes around 40 mugs.