Why does Lapsang Souchong taste smoky?
Lapsang Souchong is the tea that divides a room. Open the pouch and it smells of a bonfire. Some people are in love from the first sniff and some back away. The smoke is not a flavouring, it is how the tea is made. Here is the story and how to get the best out of it.
How it is made
It comes from the Wuyi Mountains in Fujian, China, which is also where black tea is said to have been invented. The leaf is withered and oxidised like any black tea, but it is then dried over smouldering pinewood. The smoke soaks into the leaf. The story goes that it was done in a hurry to get a batch dry for passing soldiers, and the smoky tea sold so well in Europe that they kept doing it. True or not, it has been made this way for centuries.
What it tastes like
Smoke first, obviously, with pine and a sweet, almost tarry note behind it. Under that is a proper black tea, deep and smooth, with a long finish. It is less harsh than the smell suggests. The first cup is a shock, the third is a habit. It is the tea for a cold night, a walk in the rain, and anyone who likes peaty whisky or smoked food.
How to brew it
One heaped teaspoon per 200ml, freshly boiled water, three to four minutes. Brewed too long it gets heavy. It is whole leaf, so a second steep is worth doing. Most people drink it black. Some take milk, which softens the smoke into something like a smoky latte. Try it both ways.
Cooking with it
This is where Lapsang earns its keep. Brew it strong and use it as a stock for a smoky soup. Grind the leaf and use it as a rub on pork or salmon. Steep it in cream for a smoked ice cream. Use it instead of water in a barbecue sauce. A spoon in the pot when you cook rice. It brings a smokehouse flavour without a smokehouse.
If you want smoke without the whole fire
Blend it. Half a spoon of Lapsang with a spoon of Scottish Breakfast is a morning cup with a smoky edge. Half with Earl Grey is a surprisingly good match. And if you are curious but not sure, the 5g try a cup sample is 99p and makes two mugs, which is enough to know.